If you want to be able to take the really cool photos – those crazy special effects images others just can’t figure out – what I’m about to share with you will blow your mind…

… in fact, you’ll probably be a little annoyed that nobody told you this stuff before.

You see, there are a handful of simple, easy techniques that can totally transform how you use and view your camera – and they’re so quick to grasp, they’ll make a difference for you the very next time you snap a picture.

Trouble is, the ranks of highly paid professionals out there don’t like to share.

So up until now, the only alternative has been to take expensive college or evening courses, and buy a ton of pricey equipment.

And I don’t know about you, but I don’t have thousands of dollars to throw at new cameras, lights, and to enroll in courses.

This is a cool video from Evan with some really great tips you can use right away

To find out more about evan or to order his great book  CLICK HERE

I came across freebiejeebies a while ago but thought it was a scam, well, who wouldnt? a company offering to give away free iphones, ipads and apple tv’s must be a scam, well I can 100% confirm it’s completely honest!

This is me at home opening up my free apple tv with my daughter today. please feel free to contact me, you can even give me a call on 079200 91100 and ask me about it.

To find out more please click here

This is my  link : http://apple.freebiejeebies.co.uk/260867  and you’ll get one just like it to use and pass on to your friends and contacts too.

This will all be tracked for you by freebiejeebies and when your referals take up the offers, you’ll get a referral credit. get just 5 and you too can get a free apple Tv. or save up for more and get an iphone 4, ipad, plasma tv, laptop and much more.

This is a great article by Dan Fieldman. read more free tips from Dan Here

If you’re in the market for a digital point-and-shoot camera for a beginner, here are 5 models we found which are highly recommended by the leading websites on digital photography.

These cameras are compact, easy for a beginner to use, yet has enough features for a budding digital photography enthusiast. They’re also price reasonably for someone who’s still exploring the world of digital photography.

Of course, the camera can only do so much; the quality of a picture still depends on the skill of the photographer. Make sure to claim your copy of “Shoot Digital Pics Like the Pros,” to get professional photography tips and tricks. It’s a totally f-ree report.

Here’s our top 5 cameras for digital photography beginners:

1. Canon Powershot A1100 IS

A top choice in many digital photography sites. It takes 12.1-megapixel photos and includes all the features beginners will appreciate, such as shooting modes that automatically select the right settings, Face Detection Technology, and Intelligent Contrast Correction. Yet other modes will allow the shooter to select his own settings for exposure, shutter speed and other variables. And at only a little over $100, this is one affordable yet powerful camera.

2. Panasonic DMC-FS25

Another 12.1-megapixel camera that gets consistently high ratings from photography sites. Aside from face detection and intelligent ISO control, the Panasonic DMC-FS25 allows the user to lock focus on a moving subject. The shutter release is ultra-fast, with a time lag as little as 0.006 seconds. At the ISO 6400 setting, you can take pictures even in almost total darkness.

3. Casio EX-FC100

This 9.1-megapixel camera bosts of high-speed burst shooting, which lets the user take 30 shots per second – great for sports and other action-packed photography. It also records HD video and features fast uploading to YouTube.

4. Sony Cybershot DSC-W290

This camera’s Intelligent Auto Mode, Intelligent Scene Recognition and Face Detection Technology make picture-taking foolproof even for the rank beginner. It even has Anti-Blink Function, which helps keep subjects from blinking, and warns the photographer when a subject has blinked. It has a range of other features, including 13 photo modes, image stabilization and a 9-point autofocus. This 12.1-megapixel camera also takes HD video.

5. Nikon Coolpix L100

This is a 10.0-megapixel camera with 15x optical zoom. The Smart Portrait System lets users take portraits without the dreaded red-eye, which the camera fixes automatically. It also has face-finding technology, so faces are always in focus, a Smile Mode, which shoots the picture when the subject smiles, and a Blink Warning, which lets the user know when the subject blinked. Other features include image stabilization, high-speed shooting, low-light shooting, and Sport Continuous Scene Mode of up to 13 frames per second.

Hopefully this list will help you find the perfect entry-level camera. Compare the features with your digital photography needs and, of course, your budget, to find the best point-and-shoot camera for you.

Even professional photographers use these compact cameras for situations when they cannot lug around a huge digital SLR camera. So don’t think that using one of these makes you an “amateur.”

The proof is in the picture. And if you’d like to take professional-looking pictures, then download your f-ree copy of the report, “Shoot Digital Pics Like the Pros.”

Subject : Sun through the mist

This was one of those chance shots I spotted as we where driving along.

The sun was sitting low as we drove into this bank of mist and the scene just looked really moody, and a bit spooky almost.

As I pointed the iphone at the sun the screen just went white as it was just too bright looking into the sun. When this happens if you just touch the bright point in the scene the iphone camera will auto adjust for the brightness. this can leave the rest of the scene dark, or create silhouette. just play around with touching different parts of the screen to get the best result you want.

Misty Sun from the car window

Please leave your comments below and share, recommend if you like

I take a lot of photos of my kids, landscapes and, well, just anything I find interesting, but most of them just end up staying on my phone, the reflection is from the car roof.

I find the colours produced from the iphone 4 are good and rich, almost on a HDR scale.

A good tip to get the colours rich and prevent any washout in bright areas is to touch the bright parts of the screen, this sets the focus and exposure of that area, leaving the rest to fall in place based on this focal point.

Git any photo tips for mobiles? leave them below.

Weddings can be emotionally charged moments for everyone and can be a logistical nightmare,  the photographer (professional) needs to eliminate as many potential problems and mistakes as possible, so the first order of business is to communicate with the wedding party.

This enables you to get an idea of their “game plan”.  Otherwise, if your plan is to just go with the flow (which is highly unadvisable for a professional), you’ll miss out on the best opportunities to get single and group photos, and you can also be rushed – all of which can contribute to poor photographs. Create a “Shot List” with someone intimately involved with the Day ideally the Bride and Groom. This way you’ll know when there is down time for you to go grab candids… the “true” bread’n butter of wedding photography

It’s  important for you to ESTABLISH A RAPPORT WITH THE BRIDE AND GROOM, because they need to feel comfortable with you. It’s best to take a series of photos of them prior to the wedding, just a few casual portrait shots in the park, or chilled out at home will do it,  just so you can  communicate with them, and get to know them a little… Unless your already a friend, then you’ll be 1/2 way there

An engagement photo session is a good time to do this, if you skip this crucial part of the process, when it comes down to the actual day of the wedding, the Bride & Groom won’t be at ease with you around or with you issuing commands, and telling then where to go and what to do get what you want so they’re happy with the end result.

It is important that you strive to be as unobtrusive as possible; many people forget this fact, and think that as “the photographer” they have the right to barge in a take the shots of this once-in-a-lifetime moment. No one wants the photographer interrupting the joyous occasion by asking to get a shot! or bombarding unsuspecting subjects with a harsh, blinding camera flash. It’s important to move quietly, slowly and smoothly – be like a ninja as much as possible (but you don’t need soft soled shoes).

NOT COMING PREPARED

This goes without saying, but without the proper equipment you can really hamper your effort to get the best photos possible. Preparation is anything and everything you can do that will inform you on what lenses to bring and what the location looks like when photographed, so you can pre-visualize shots. Part of being prepared is scouting the location ahead of time at the time of the wedding, so you are aware of the lighting conditions and can plan accordingly. You’ll also want to bring a tripod (or monopod), as it’ll be a lifesaver. If one of your goals is to completely blend in (and it should be), then taking photos without the flash is one of the best ways to do that. But that means lowering the shutter speed and/or opening up the aperture as wide as possible to accommodate for the low-light conditions.… that’s were a tripod or monopod becomes worth its weight in gold to eliminate camera-shake and blur (too big no-no’s).

BRINGING ONE CAMERA is another major mistake that most people make.. If you bring two cameras, you have two options to mine the most out of the event – 1) is to bring an assistant; this way you can divide up the duties, subject and events and capture as much as possible. There’s so much material to cover at a wedding that two eyes are always better than one. And 2) is to have a wide-angle lens on one camera and a telephoto on the other. This saves time in switching lenses, so you can grab the group shot then immediately segue to an intimate close-up of the bride kibitzing with her bride’s maids or the father of the bride brushing aside a tear.

LACKLUSTER Group Photos

We’ve all seen these, and they are a major bummer for wedding photography. The main challenged of group photos is to get everyone smiling and not blinking at the time that you press the shutter. You can avoid this by having everyone close their eyes, and then open them “on the count of three.” Once you’ve trained your group, do the count again and snap the picture. You can also avoid these recycle bin shots by properly positioning yourself to get the most dynamic shots. Staged group shots are always awkward, severely clichéd and don’t offer anything exciting or memorable. Your individual creativity in staging can elevate a de rigeur group photo into something that everyone will want copies of (consider a changing your perspective and/or staggering the group).

Rushing usually results in UNPOLISHED COMPOSITIONS and with all the surrounding drama and chaos it is very easy for you to skip the added seconds (or minutes) it takes to find a more aesthetically appealing composition. Bad composition and sloppy framing will ruin amazing opportunities and result in mediocre (at best) or unusable (at worst) photos of action that can’t be replicated or re-staged. Take the time to make sure all the elements are properly in place – lighting, subject, background all must work in concert. As “the photographer” you do have some authority in getting the wedding party to reposition itself for your purposes. Sure, they might grumble, but the Bride & Groom will thank you later.  And if you’ve scouted the location ahead of time and broken bread with the Bride & Groom ahead of time, then by all means push the envelope and be bold with your decisions.

Another common mistake is a “nice” background; now, why is this considered a mistake? Because the background should in no way, shape or form compete with the Bride & Groom. The background should be as neutral and/or bland as possible (although avoid a white background). The true skill in photographic composition is knowing how all the elements of the picture will draw the viewer’s eye director where you want it.

In the digital age there’s no excuse for NOT SHOOTING ENOUGH. You should bring two or three memory cards and don’t hold back (please shoot in RAW+JPEG for the most flexibility). Professional photographers take 100s and 100s of photos to find those 10 to 20 that not only capture the key, critical moments, but will serve as emotional hallmarks of the event.

Take these points to heart and incorporate them into your thinking, and you should be able to avoid the common mistakes and therefore elevate your work, and win raves from the couple weeks later when they review the photo album you put together for them.

Specializing in wedding photography that is both visually expressive and contemporary, requires dedicated efforts and a clear blueprint. Digital Wedding Secrets by Nick Smith is one of the rare resources that prepares you on how to capture a creative portrait that defines the essence of every wedding day and every couple. It also provides you with a step by step action plan, website, business agreements to help you get the most out of your wedding photography.

To get mor info from Nick Smith,  take a look at his Digital Wedding Secrets 

One of my favourite is Carr Mill Dam and Sankey Valley, especially with the recent regeneration that’s been going on.

Throughout St Helens there are 17 parks and open spaces ( according to the Council http://www.sthelens.gov.uk/page.htm?id=690#Parks )

• Bankes Park
• Clinkham Wood Local Nature Reserve
• Clock Face Country Park
• Downall Croft Doorstep Green
• Fosters Park (Formerly Hardshaw Park)
• Gaskell Park
• Haresfinch Park
• King George V Haydock
• Mesnes Park
• Nanny Goat Park
• Sankey Valley Country Park
• Sherdley Park
• Siding Lane Local Nature Reserve
• Sutton Park
• Taylor Park
• The Duckeries
• Victoria Park

If I’ve missed on out, please let me, and our readers know in the comments below. would be great to get some photos in here too, ideally photos of your children in the parks around St Helens – email them in to me at photo (@) creativephotoshop.co.uk or if you have some on flickr or facebook then send me the link.

Portrait tips for parks and open spaces

When your taking portraits in the park and in open spaces you need to not get too wrapped up in the place that you are in, remember, your prime objective is to take the portrait of the person, not the location. Having said that, the location is important as it :

• Provides an interesting environment and location to take photos
• Helps the kid’s relax and be “natural”
• When it’s a fun place, it will help to get the kids laughing and smiling. not always important, but happy, smiling photos of kids are great, and make you feel good!
• Provides a visual enhancement in the final image by way of colour, patterns and shapes in the background
• Fantastic natural light – you really can get better light than good, bright natural daylight.

Read more tips on light here

What’s in the background

When your taking photos (especially portraits) in the open, you need to put more thought into the background. I don’t mean just looking out for the odd tree that may appear to be poking out of someone’s head, but also look out for:

• Distracting patterns
• Random people
• Dogs
• Traffic
• Ugly stuff that doesn’t compliment the photo.
• Colours that don’t compliment the subject
• patterns that work against or distract from the person.

For this shot of Ajay, I was high above him at the top of a hill, this placed the grass on the ground behind him, I just shouted and asked him to “smile”

Have fun and happy snapping

Following on from the excerpt from the “Click! How to take gorgeous photos of your kids” I published, I want to give a good example of how the light can add mood to a photo, especialy with a photo of a child.

Natural low sunlight will add a lovely warm glow

This is a photo I took of my son toasting a marshmallow on the chimnea in the garden.

I wanted to capture the whole mood of the moment naturally, this meant  taking the shot without getting his attention away from his  marshmallow he’s toasting, and using  the warm light from the low sun just starting to set. His position in relation to the sun was just perfect as the light just brushed over him and warmly lit his face up, it’s almost as if the warmth from the chimnea is lighting him up as he’s tosting his marshmallow.

Use the low sun to warm up the shot

When the sun is low in the sky like this it gives a wonderful warm glow to just about everything and can be used to enhance or create a mood in an otherwise ordinary photo.

This was shot on my FujiFinepix S9500 @ f/3.5 1/160 with an ISO-80.

These setting work well because:

The low ISO setting of 80 will help colour saturation and produce no grain, keeping the mood warm and soft.

The aperture setting of f/3.5 is quite wide and lets in lots of light to enable a fast shutter speed of 1/160 sec. This shutter speed keeps the shot sharp, even with the light being low.

You can read the full article I published from the book “Click! How to take gorgeous photos of your kids” here

Please leave your thoughts, comments – and click the like or recommend if you found this helpful.

Photoshopped reflection from Carr Mill Dam, St Helens

Autumn is an amazing time of year for photographers. The changing colours, the crisp air, misty mornings, rain fall and long sunsets and sun rises all give some amazing and beautiful photo opportunity’s to capture.

But don’t wait around too long to get your camera out though. Once those lush green summer leaves start to change into the warm autumn yellows, oranges and reds, they will soon be all brown and falling off the trees to leave them bare for winter.

• Depending where you live, the best autumn colours will only be around for a month or so and peak through October. This all depends on the weather at the time but generally October and into November is best.
• To really bring out the colours of autumn go for early morning or late afternoon when the sun is low.
• When the sun is low in the sky it has a warmer light that will help bring out the warmth in the colours of the leaves. You don’t need to wait for sunset, just nice and low will do it.
• The low position of the sun also gives great long shadows to add mood, depth and texture to landscapes, macro, abstract, wildlife and even portrait shots.

I kept this sharp by resting my phone on the balcony

I’m going to skip the obvious one of “use a tripod”, although tripods are ideal to help get a pin sharp photo, they are not essential, and,  we don’t all have tripods. Even if we do though, we don’t always have them with us, all the time. Well, at least I don’t as Helen won’t let me

 Blurred photos are caused by either movment of the subject or movment of the camera

 

My first tip is to shoot with the fastest shutter speed possible.

If you have a “S” or “SP” mode on your camera this is the “Shutter”, or “Shutter Priority” and enables you to control the shutter speed while the camera sets the other settings automatic according to your chosen shutter speed. So by setting this to the highest number posible will help to keep your shots sharp.

My next tip is use the “Sport Mode” in-camera setting

This is probably one of the more underused settings that can help prevent blurred photos. The “sport mode” option works with all the cameras settings and optimises it ready to capture fast moving objects. this is a good mode to use for children and pets especially when they are running around.

The third tip I wan’t to give you is to “lean” on something.

to keep the sunset shot sharp in the low light of the sunset I rested my phone on the balcony. You can also use a wall, tree, rock, bench, chair… anything will do. If  you can hold your camera and rest your hands on something solid and fixed this will keep your camera much steadier than just by your hands alone.

If you have any other tips to share please leave them in the comments below 

Geoff.